How Long Is Mixed Formula Good For At Room Temperature Sick Pet Bird Care

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Sick Pet Bird Care

The article is aimed specifically at pet owners and is intended for them to use as a basic guide to properly caring for a sick or injured bird. Always follow your veterinarian’s advice and do not use this article to avoid a veterinary examination. The main idea of ​​this article is to reduce stress on your recovering bird.

1. WARMTH: Sick birds sit, closing in fluff to conserve heat. The effort to conserve heat places an additional burden on an already weakened bird. Your vet will decide if your bird needs hospitalization, but if home care is acceptable, I recommend setting up a tent to keep your bird warm. Birds’ natural temperatures are much higher than ours, ranging from 103 to 106 F. Therefore, what often feels warm to us can be cool to them, and this is especially true for sick birds. An easy way to provide warmth is to cover 1/2 of the cage with a blanket and place a heat lamp on the other side as a heat source. We generally keep our sick birds at an ambient temperature between 85 and 95 F. This varies greatly from bird to bird, so it’s important to monitor your pet to ensure the temperature is correct, and of course, consult your veterinarian. An overheated bird has very sleek feathers tightly attached to its body, holds its wings (shoulders) slightly away from its body and may pant. If you see any of these signs, your bird is too warm and the environmental temperature should be lowered accordingly. For night heat, I recommend using red light. Sick birds, like sick people, need rest, and being kept under bright lights all night can lead to sleep deprivation. It is also important to provide light during the day so that they can be encouraged to eat and can be observed. Therefore, the entire cage should never be covered during the day. I do not recommend heating pads because it is very difficult to regulate the temperature. If the bird does not sit and sits directly on the pillow, it can easily overheat or burn. And in my experience, chicks raised on a heating pad quickly become dehydrated and re-burned.

2. STRESS: Weakened birds must be kept in a stress-free environment. Often what seems normal to us can cause stress in our feathered friends. I recommend taking a critical look at your bird’s environment to determine what may be stressors. Some common ones are a bird in the middle of house traffic with no chance to rest, cigarette smoke or aerosols in the bird’s environment, lack of darkness/sleep time at night, other pets, small children, too many visual stimuli (cage directly). in front of a window), competition from cage mates, excessive handling, poor nutrition and extreme temperatures (for example, birds kept in the kitchen). I recommend leaving the sick birds in the cage and letting them recover peacefully. Think of it as bed rest for your pet! Too much handling can stress the bird and require additional calories. If the bird is housed with other birds, it is usually best to move the bird to the same cage. Some birds can become too stressed when separated from the colony, so you should ask your veterinarian for advice on how to cage a sick pet. But in general, removing the bird from the group reduces the stress on feeding and allows for easier and better monitoring of medication. Of course, if an infectious disease is suspected, the pet must be moved to an isolation cage and at least to a separate room – preferably a separate house where there are no other birds.

3. DIET: If your doctor gave you dietary advice, now is not the time to make any changes. Changing the type of food is extremely stressful for your bird and should be started once the bird has recovered. Always discuss with your pet’s veterinarian how and when to make dietary changes. In general, I recommend offering all of the bird’s favorite foods during illness, as many sick birds become anorexic and may die from starvation. If your bird is usually a seeder but is not currently eating, try putting millet sprays in the cage, which most birds like. It is important to remember that the bird’s malnutrition has been going on for months to years and cannot be corrected in a day or a week. Slow changes are essential for a sick bird. If you can’t get your pet to eat, they will need to be taken to the hospital for tube feeding and further care. Birds have a fast metabolism and can starve quickly. Therefore, it should always be assumed that a pet bird that has stopped eating is critically ill, the potential for death is certainly there. Finally, if your bird is a hand-raised baby and is not eating due to illness, you can often transition back to hand-feeding (syringe feeding) during the recovery period. A good manual cultivation formula should be used. The mixture should be mixed with hot water according to the instructions on the bag and offered to the bird. Do not force the bird to eat. Pet owners should never force feed their birds. A bird can easily aspirate (breathe in food) and develop pneumonia, and force feeding causes tremendous stress on your bird. Returning to hand feeding is only beneficial for birds that are willing to accept syringe feeding. Also, when feeding by hand, the formula must be warmed correctly (follow the formula bag and your veterinarian’s advice) to avoid food burns caused by formula that is too hot and formula that is too cool.

4. TREATMENT: routes of administration: 1. injectable, 2. in water or food, 3. topical, 4. oral I prefer not to give medicine in the pet’s water or food. Medicines administered in this way often cause changes in taste and can cause the bird to reduce food and water consumption. Also, when the medication is placed in food or water, it is very difficult to determine how much of the medication has actually been ingested by the pet. So, in my opinion, the best routes of administration are injectable and oral. Topical medications are often of no use to the pet and cause oily feathers.

Before taking the bird home, the doctor or technician should show you how to properly treat the bird. Briefly, the patient should be kept in an upright position and the syringe containing the medication should be gently inserted from the left mouth and turned to the right side. Most birds try to bite the syringe, allowing it to be easily inserted into the oral cavity. Slowly press the plunger of the syringe to dispense the medicine into the lower part of the beak. If your pet has problems while taking the medication, stop for a few moments and then try again. If you are unable to give your pet medication, you should inform your veterinarian. Medicines can be mixed with a flavoring agent (FlavorX) to help reduce resistance. Sometimes, depending on the reason for the treatment, your doctor may give you a long-acting injection instead of an oral medication, but it has limited uses and is therefore not available for every pet.

5. FOLLOW-UP: As soon as your pet was diagnosed, he was taken to the vet for a physical exam and diagnostic work-up, including laboratory tests. Unfortunately, many people see their pet getting better and don’t realize that a follow-up is necessary. I always recommend rechecking the patient at different intervals depending on weakness. A follow-up check allows your doctor to assess the patient’s response to treatment and adherence to the owner’s instructions. In many cases, when treating an exotic pet, the treatment method needs to be modified slightly to ensure the best response. These re-inspections are also used to reinforce the changes necessary to maintain the bird’s health. In addition, lab values ​​can be rechecked to ensure that the patient is truly recovering and not just feeling well enough to continue to cover up weaknesses. I cannot stress enough the importance of this follow-up, it is extremely important to the health of your bird.

The most important thing is to follow your veterinarian’s advice and ask questions so that you fully understand what is required of you to help your pet recover.

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